Gcftlac: 'The Girls' and other curves

Must admit, that that last blog post was tough to write. More difficult to keep interesting. However, I am not writing this purely for my own amusement (its lockdown and god knows I don't need anymore carbs, so writing it is) but also for those stitchlings out there who might find this style of blog more approachable. So strap in because if I don't find away to amuse myself writing this content, I will probably go and rock in the corner. I anticipate potential tangents, gifs and swearing this time around. So all abroad? Good-Oh! Let's get the party started.

To carry on the Blackadder theme...take it away Lady Whiteadder...

Yes, our devil's dumplings are truly a thing of wonder, aren't they? Each of us have them that are unique to us in shape, size and position. So our patterns have to take account of this sudden, pointy protrusion and adjust its shape. The fabric doesn't have AI abilities so we manipulate the fabric with darts and other trickery.

However, as good as our joyous fun bags are, they aren't always be a B Cup (the standard on most patterns by the way) or necessarily perkier than a former Disney star grabbing their crotch whilst dancing with a snake. This means that you may have to do adjustments to these to move or widen the critical points to suit your figure.

So, at some point, I will have to tackle adjustments on this blog....the trouble is....I have no idea what I'm doing with those adjustments. So until I have, at least, done it once successfully, let's pretend that I am the beacon of all knowledge and I am being coy with a 'To be Continued...'. I understand the theory well enough, just not the application or manipulation of them to pretend to you that I do.

Pictured is the Prague Blouse by Oranguesse incase anyone is interested. See the / \ lines underneath the arm pit? Thats the dart. Darts come in quite a few shapes and positions. Their job is to cause curves which can curve over, in case of our norks, or retract into crevices such as the small of the back.

This is typically what this detail looks like. Although it looks very odd on the page, once you put this onto fabric it makes much more sense. See the cross? That represents the maximum point of your bust, typically, near/just shy, brace yourselves for triggering word, your nipple. Ewwwwww, didn't like typing that.

I like to transfer this apex point and the solid lines onto fabric immediately after I cut the fabric. That means that the fabric doesn't move and you don't have janky darts which you and all interested parties are guaranteed to see after construction. If they are really badly placed or done they will be noticeable so take your time over these steps. I prefer to do this with a temporary stitch in a contrasting colour through the pattern paper. For those unfamiliar with this, this is often referred to as as a 'tailors tack' By the way the terms 'basting' or 'tacking' exactly the same thing and is an interchangeable word, just meaning temporary stitch. Surprise! Not a turkey in sight!

For Becki :-) If the rest of you get that reference you were a students in the early 2000's.

I mark the end of these solid lines on the fabric. After I have removed the pattern piece, I use chalk to draw the lines. The dotted line is mainly part of the adjustment process and is a type of fold line, so don't worry too much at this moment. The fabric will be folded to the inside of the garment, from the pretty side. Using the the two solid lines, meeting up, with the apex cross in the dead centre of the fold. Iron to help keep everything flat and near and you will sew on that solid line line as permanent stitching, which will form a triangle-like shape. On the inside of the garment, there will be a slight pleat of fabric. Don't cut these or mess with them and the instructions will typically direct you to iron, (again! I know!) the triangle downwards. If you have done everything correctly, it should sit on the outline of the fabric beautifully and it will get incorporated into the side seam. If you want a video showing the step, I can recommend YT Professor Pincushion channel.

Other ways of creating more space for our breasticles include gathers and pleating, but these a much easier to adjust and manage than darts. So if you do not see darts, specifically, look for gathers and pleats at the shoulders and coming up from the waist. They are a little more subtle and will fulfil a design aesthetic give your jubblies a bit of jiggle room.

OK, thats our Devils Dumplings and darts overview achieved. And I didn't die of boredom. I made it a personal challenge not to use the word bust until my summary, not for any prudish reasons, just lexical challenge for myself.

But just to be serious for a rare moment, just remember no matter the size and shape of your bust, that you are beautiful. Oh, and while you are around that area, give them a check for lumps, bumps and other warning signs and look after yourselves because living until they drop floor is what it is all about.