Zip my lip or Button up?
- hammy dressmaker
- Oct 15, 2020
- 5 min read
So, today I'm writing a post which I'm a little bit scared of to post. Why? You may ask. What has scared bolshy old Hammy? Well, less of the old, you cheeky lot. I have a deeply unpopular opinion on one of our little communities most beloved pattern companies. Indeed, in my opinion, it is not so much a pattern company, but pretty much a cult at this point. If my oh so imaginative title did not tell you who....deep breath...Its Tilly and the Buttons. I am slightly scared that a mob will form and march to my door in a sea of Coco tops chanting her name.
Indeed, so is the strength of this dislike, I have the Stretch (a lovely, thoughtful gift) book but I will not look through or touch it. I made the Bibi Skirt and I couldn't bring myself to acknowledge TATB and I haven't remade the pattern since.
Now, before I lay into TATB, in the interests of constructive criticism, I shall make a few disclaimers and outline aspects of the company which I feel obliged to acknowledge and, in some aspects, praise.
I love to see success. And, boy, I think we can all agree that TATB has been successful. The company has blazed a trail and inspired so many to pursue sewing, pattern drafting and swelling the burgeoning interest of nervous beginners into fully fledged ranks of our community, helping to make sewing as cool as we all know it is and making this hobby accessible, irrespective of disposable income. Its a British owned, female led company and all that is fucking awesome. I will not ever try and undermine that not try and dictate a firm's business decisions that the company makes. I merely exercise my consumer power and not spend my sewing pound with a company whose mission does not not align with my own preferences and I'll use my freedom of speech to ask questions. It matters not this blog does not have thousands of subscribers (but thank you each and everyone of you, it really makes my day) this is my little corner of the internet and I want to always be upfront and honest. So many blogs and vlogs double as advertisement, so much so its difficult to actually find constructive criticism sometimes. As well as praise, we need to ask questions. We need to self regulate and call out bullshit, as, and when, we see it otherwise our freedom of choice, or even self determinism, becomes vastly reduced. Also, how many can companies change if we say nothing? These questions may or may not align with your own consumer preferences, once you start to really think about it. Agree or not agree, thats cool. I'll still speak to you....just
However, sometimes we forget that we are consumers and companies are selling a product. Its wrapped in the comforting fog of a loopback jersey, but thats the nuts and bolts of it. Remember that.
Nor can I can deny the impact of Love at First Stitch. Go into any facebook group and ask "Im a beginner, any tips" You are bound to be swamped with people praising TATB books and patterns, particularly this book, and exulting 50 shades of worship. I bought the book for a beginner sewist actually and had a look and I really was impressed by the clear instruction, wonderful photography and strong brand identity. All that takes real skill.
I really wish this could be a sycophantic post but, ultimately, I have some shade to sling and this is 4-5 years lots of piles of annoyance in the making. I would love to write a post in 12 to 18 months time and eat large slice of hot humble pie with cold custard. None of that double cream, you posh lot. I'm a northern lass, we eat pies for breakfast and custard on our puddin'.
Nor can I criticise Tilly Walnes as a person. I do not know the woman. I have no personal dislike. I am criticising the deliberate company strategy of exclusion. By this point, its not ignorance, its exclusion.
However, I doubt Ms Walnes remotely gives two southern figs (and double cream) about what I have to say because she and TATB is doing quite fine as due the strength of heady customer loyalty. However, if it was any other company....
However, TATB isn't listening to a large, multiple, proportions of our community and that is the core of my annoyance.
Does anyone enjoy the larger size range that many pattern companies are starting to launch. That came from a post by the Curvy Sewing Collective. In short, it argues not only were the inches not there, but the acknowledgement that larger sizes also have to have larger blocks. I remember when TATB announced a larger size range. It seemed that the community went gaga over a couple of inches added. Do you honestly think enough work went into that? Enough thought? A block especially developed? I do not. If you develop a block to that end, then you would make the most out of the expense, right? Multiple sizes and push out the block to the maximum and appeal to new demographics. It was, at best, rushed, at worst, an empty gesture. Technically, I would be in the size range. Literally, the last size. But, god forbid, I gain a bit of weight or my curvier friend wants to learn. That would be hard cheese. In private conversations I have had with a number of plus sized sewists they have posed the question and received some interesting comments, where they felt dismissed. In one memorable brush off, the sewist was way out of the 'extended' size range, and when she enquired whether they were further plans was told that the sizing was now 'ample'. Well, if that is true, I don't have receipts, if thats true, that's a giant f you isn't it? Especially strange, considering that the whole premise of the company is developing basic beginner patterns. The logistics would take work but the benefits and profit would way outlay the initial outlay. Other companies are working out the logistics on more complicated shapes... TATB has the name and reputation. Consumers would eat that stuff up, even if it was just a pdf range. Many, many, many plus sized sewists start precisely because RTW does not accommodate them, it seems kind of cruel to be left out of one of the biggest gateway pattern companies. In fact, so many companies starting out, begin now by immediately developing curve ranges. Pipedream patterns and printapattern to name two and they do not have the man power or cash flow that TATB enjoy. So it seems all-in-all pretty jarring and odd to me to have this position.
Ok, next criticism. Although, TATB marketing enjoys a plethora or skin tones, however none of the variety include sewists over the age of 40, it seems. In other news, women over 40 are still sexy, beautiful women. The patterns are basic enough to suit all women, in all ages. They aren't likely to turn in the direction of fetish gear. And, even if they did do such an about turn....women over 40 are still sexy, still buying the patterns, still want representation
Last criticism....god aren't you sick of them? They are so so boring. The pattern equivalent of vanilla ice-cream. Where is my salted caramel? Interesting pleats and darts. Something to make me wonder, how is that done? Im sick of seeing the same patterns on my feed....they are so many pattern companies, people. Better size ranges, cheaper, exciting new things to try.
So there we go. Finally, got it off my chest. Don't hate me. As always, would love your comments, even if its Hammy, you are crazy. And if you come to my house, come in something other than a Coco....not the Eden though, I haven't been that nasty....
Comments